Prabal Gurung Fall 2015 Collection: The Heat of the Moment

2015-11-22 fashion Fashion

Prabal Gurung Fall 2015 Collection: The Heat of the Moment

As a designer, you will for that shining moment, the one when your roar rings louder than any other. Last night produced such an occasion for Prabal Gurung. From his voluminous layers of furs to the soft, quietly body-skimming dresses, this is by far the best collection I’ve ever had the pleasure of witnessing from the quiet and enigmatic Nepalese designer. There have been seasons (ahem, Spring ’15) when the clothes didn’t feel entirely right, but not this time. This is a collection brimming with pieces you can literally take right off the runway and wear out.

The pieces could almost be called minimal, as it’s all relative, save for Prabal’s flair for the decadent, deliciously subtle as it feels. Sumptuous shades of dove gray and buttercream yellow, touchable fabrics of silk crepe and cashmere, and lambskin leather galore: the overall effect is as soothing as it is stirring. So was seeing the selection of models; appearances by 30- and 40-something greats like Kirsty Hume and Frankie Rayder made for a sensational surprise. Prabal is also playing with new shapes. “I’ve realized a dress can still be sexy without being skintight,” he said. Likewise! The high diagonal slits, some complemented by broad pleats, are sensual without being pushily so. Languid, spaghetti-strapped slipdresses that tease with the prospect of drifting off the body (the nip slip might have to be embraced come fall) feel so much sexier than their aggressively body-conscious cousins.

Especially paired with architectural T-strap pumps and that fur, an outdoorsy-inspired take on uptown-chic mink and fox, for a juxtaposition of tufts and textures. Indeed, it’s that dissension that heightens the energy levels. Pitting delicate lace, crystals, and jet beading against naturalistic animal prints, like snow leopard, and Fair Isle-motif knits is the kind of clash I like to see. Speaking of which, as much as fashion is founded on the visual, Prabal knows it’s also about being heard. I can announce with confidence now that he has found his voice. Now hear him roar.

Prabal Gurung Fall 2015 Collection: The Heat of the Moment

Prabal Gurung Fall 2015 Collection: The Heat of the Moment

Prabal Gurung Fall 2015 Collection: The Heat of the Moment

Prabal Gurung Fall 2015 Collection: The Heat of the Moment

Prabal Gurung Fall 2015 Collection: The Heat of the Moment

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